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Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

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nareshseep
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Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby nareshseep » June 25th, 2012, 12:34 pm

Myth 1. 20W50 is the best oil for all engine because Trinidad is a hot country.

This information is absolutely incorrect. You need to check your service manual to see what you Manufacturer recommends. Who would you believe the average mango tree mechanics or the manufacturer that made the car?

Newer engines have tighter/narrower tolerances than old engines and therefore the thinner oil is needed to get into these small spaces and produce adequate lubrication. Using a thicker oil will produce accelerated engine wear. A side effect of lubrication is cooling/reduction in friction . Using a thicker oil will also increase engine temp and increase pumping losses.


I will add some more when I get some time

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby wagonrunner » June 25th, 2012, 12:36 pm


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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby S_2NR » June 25th, 2012, 12:54 pm

nareshseep wrote: Myth 1. 20W50 is the best oil for all engine because Trinidad is a hot country.

This information is absolutely incorrect. You need to check your service manual to see what you Manufacturer recommends. Who would you believe the average mango tree mechanics or the manufacturer that made the car?

Newer engines have tighter/narrower tolerances than old engines and therefore the thinner oil is needed to get into these small spaces and produce adequate lubrication. Using a thicker oil will produce accelerated engine wear. A side effect of lubrication is cooling/reduction in friction . Using a thicker oil will also increase engine temp and increase pumping losses.


I will add some more when I get some time


Your post is based on the assumption that everyone has "newer engines" :roll:

You're right about the manual part but aren't oils chosen based on ambient temperature?
Isnt trinidad hot relative to japan?

just asking eh

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby cinco » June 25th, 2012, 3:53 pm

S_2NR wrote:
nareshseep wrote: Myth 1. 20W50 is the best oil for all engine because Trinidad is a hot country.

This information is absolutely incorrect. You need to check your service manual to see what you Manufacturer recommends. Who would you believe the average mango tree mechanics or the manufacturer that made the car?

Newer engines have tighter/narrower tolerances than old engines and therefore the thinner oil is needed to get into these small spaces and produce adequate lubrication. Using a thicker oil will produce accelerated engine wear. A side effect of lubrication is cooling/reduction in friction . Using a thicker oil will also increase engine temp and increase pumping losses.


I will add some more when I get some time




Your post is based on the assumption that everyone has "newer engines" :roll:

You're right about the manual part but aren't oils chosen based on ambient temperature?
Isnt trinidad hot relative to japan?

just asking eh



texas and florida are way hotter than we are
the operating temp of your engine has nothing to do with ambient temp
your 96degree thermostat keeps the engine at the same operating temp no matter the external temperature so get that thought out of your head

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby FullStop » June 26th, 2012, 12:44 am

S_2NR wrote:
nareshseep wrote: Myth 1. 20W50 is the best oil for all engine because Trinidad is a hot country.

This information is absolutely incorrect. You need to check your service manual to see what you Manufacturer recommends. Who would you believe the average mango tree mechanics or the manufacturer that made the car?

Newer engines have tighter/narrower tolerances than old engines and therefore the thinner oil is needed to get into these small spaces and produce adequate lubrication. Using a thicker oil will produce accelerated engine wear. A side effect of lubrication is cooling/reduction in friction . Using a thicker oil will also increase engine temp and increase pumping losses.


I will add some more when I get some time


Your post is based on the assumption that everyone has "newer engines" :roll:

You're right about the manual part but aren't oils chosen based on ambient temperature?
Isnt trinidad hot relative to japan?

just asking eh


a simple explanation is this, if you have a pot of water maintained on the stove at 100 celcius and the room temperature is 35 celcius, the stove is consistent, if the temperature of the room goes up to 37, will the water temperature go above 100? It will NOT. Your engine temperature will be affected by external temperature at such a time that said external temperature is higher than the engine temperature.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby FullStop » June 26th, 2012, 12:47 am

wagonrunner wrote:http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?p=8611


I've never found a mineral oil that has the additive package close to that of the synthetics...not in terms of anti wear , not in terms of detergency, not in acid neutralizing capacity.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Conrad » June 26th, 2012, 9:09 am

Another oil thread???

What about bumping up fuel pressure because the car stalling with the vented-to-air bov?
What about bumping up fuel pressure because bigger injectors aren't necessary?
What about changing the stock fuel-lines to bigger copper ones because they can't carry enough fuel for ~400 horse powah?
What about hard-wiring variable cam systems so they're always "on"?
What about removing thermostat so the engine would run cooler? (another killed topic but a healthy reminder)
What about distilled water being the best thing to run through your car's cooling system?
What about all cars with power-steering use power-steering fluid?
What about the only good oil filter is Fram or Purolator?
What about you run a #8 NGK plug or Denso IK24 because you're running more than 15 psi of boost?
What about Iridium spark plugs give a better spark and therefore more power?
What about all turbo engines need a 3" exhaust, doesn't even matter if it's crush-bent at the local welder?
What about it's always better to replace with an aftermarket polyurethane bushing?
What about the best turbo to buy is the one that can make the most power?
What about an electric fan is always better than a clutch fan (even without a shroud) because it doh make the engine work to turn the big 280C sounding fan?
What about a SRI using the stock piping is always better than the stock intake setup?
What about a big fmic is good cause it helps cool the air more?
What about some form of tuning/management not being necessary once you don't cross the magical pony hump of 5 psi, no it doesn't matter if it's a T25 or a GT4788R?
What about it's ok to make and install a one piece driveshaft without balancing the shaft/installing a safety loop?

What about always buy tyres from local dealers because they're not "heat cycled foreign-used tyres" despite people finding some are 5 years old? :lol:

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby wagonrunner » June 26th, 2012, 12:05 pm

What about the only good oil filter is Fram or Purolator?
allyuh continue with fram. :lol: :lol:

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Hook » June 26th, 2012, 1:52 pm

Conrad wrote:Another oil thread???

.
.
.
What about bumping up fuel pressure because bigger injectors aren't necessary?
.
.
.
What about some form of tuning/management not being necessary once you don't cross the magical pony hump of 5 psi, no it doesn't matter if it's a T25 or a GT4788R?


Is THIS what you mean?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68120&p=6311380#p6311380

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Conrad » June 26th, 2012, 3:49 pm

Hook wrote:
Conrad wrote:Another oil thread???

.
.
.
What about bumping up fuel pressure because bigger injectors aren't necessary?
.
.
.
What about some form of tuning/management not being necessary once you don't cross the magical pony hump of 5 psi, no it doesn't matter if it's a T25 or a GT4788R?


Is THIS what you mean?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68120&p=6311380#p6311380


Actually I've never read that thread before :lol:

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Hook » June 27th, 2012, 11:39 am

boy! I read that before this thread and for some reason those two lines in your post stood out :lol:

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Pantos » July 1st, 2012, 6:02 pm

told to me by mechanics already:

Squeeze brake fluid back up in the lines to the reservoir when changing pads/shoes instead of letting the fluid bleed out through slackened nipple and then purging air out.

Leave the transmission selector in D at all times. Trinidad has no roads that warrant use of 2 and L. :roll:

Engine braking destroys your timing belt and should be avoided.

Overdrive switch should be left off if not on highway.

No need for parking brakes if you have an automatic.. just leave it in P, except if on a hill.

Engine coolant is a waste of time because that is antifreeze and Trinidad has no winter. Use plain water instead.

(Probably true but ridiculous) An egg or 2 will stop any leaks in your radiator. Black pepper too.

The hot water from your engine doh have to run through your A/C system to regulate cabin temperature because Trinidad is already a hot country and nobody does use it, and it does put rust in your radiator.

There is no need for a balance shaft in your engine. It does only work as it should when you have one set ah ting connected to your engine like power steering and A/C.

Carburettors don't need automatic choke in Trinidad.. 2 pump of the gas pedal on a morning before you start and you good to go.

All engine thermostats in Trinidad does malfunction because of the heat and is better off removed from the cooling system.

(Always seen done on older cars, but can't find evidence to prove the reason:) switching plug wires around and backfiring the engine does clear out a carburettor.

Revving an engine to 6000RPM for a few minutes every couple of days with no load does clear out the intake and make the engine run better. :roll: :roll:

Wrecking (towing) a car with All Wheel Drive by raising 2 wheels off the ground and pulling it to the station does no damage to the drive train because the station "right there."

The "ding" heard on RORO cars at 110KM/h is a real humbug and the best thing to do is to take it out. :roll: :lol:

(Seen on a vehicle once:) the radiator's electric cooling fan works better if the air blowing towards the front of the car. :shock:

(For cars with contact points:) The 1 ohm ceramic resistor on the coil serves no purpose.

You can blank off all the hoses that there and condemn all components they feed except the hose for the PCV valve (sometimes not even that.. see next point), the one for brakes booster, and the one for the carburettor vacuum advance (sometimes this is also removed).

Backpressure should not be re-fed to an engine for combustion. Just connect a piece of garden hose long enough to channel the unburnt mixture down to the bottom of the engine and let it hang there. :lol: :lol: :roll:

Is nothing if your engine's timing is a litle too advanced, you will just get a little more speed.

(doing this is always possible but never advised)You can connect the -ve (minus) jumper cable to the -ve (minus) battery pole of the vehicle with the dead battery.

(never tried this one, but it might be true) The detergents in transmission fluid will keep carburetor jets and injectors clean, if you don't mund a little smoke from your exhaust.

Dishwashing soap used as washer fluid is the best thing.

Driving down a hill with your handbrakes up 2 clicks is OK.

Rev a car for a few minutes after a long distance run, especially after night driving when lights are used to ensure your battery has some charge to start next time. :?:

(I remember this from 87 when a neighbour's (box) lancer was plagued with problems and the mechanic could NOT fix it) If you have sediment in your gas tank that can somehow pass the filter, don't service the tank, just never let it run below 1/4 tank and you will be set for years. (That's what she did and sold the car 15 years later with the same problem)

The list goes on....

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Ted_v2 » July 1st, 2012, 6:13 pm

cars with loud barrels, rev and leggo fass till the exhaust "pop" daz when it working properly

transmission shifting funny? add a cover of brake fluid

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby S_2NR » July 1st, 2012, 6:38 pm

sound boy 64 wrote:cars with loud barrels, rev and leggo fass till the exhaust "pop" daz when it working properly


hahahhaha..wtf is this.. pop?

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Ted_v2 » July 1st, 2012, 7:41 pm

S_2NR wrote:
sound boy 64 wrote:cars with loud barrels, rev and leggo fass till the exhaust "pop" daz when it working properly


hahahhaha..wtf is this.. pop?


clearly you have no raj as your friends lol

one of my buddy is a mech. and he haz a b14 with a loud barrel ,lambo doors 18" crims and he does rev it till it pop (auto tranny). i asked him why it does pop and he said thats when the rev limiter kick enn, and how when you doesnt rev it the car does kick down lazy or something so lol

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Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Hook » July 1st, 2012, 8:13 pm

^^^ so only raj(es?) does rev for it to pop? allyuh doh get out much nuh
Anyway...

IIRC, here on this forum self, someone said you unplug your knock sensor so the ECU doesn't pull timing and dump fuel, so u don't lose power

what grinds my gears as well is the fact that a large number of 2nrs who have done conversions either don't have a diagnostic port, CEL, or both, all because the mechanic/electrician find "it doh need all dat"

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby wagonrunner » July 1st, 2012, 8:59 pm

Hook wrote:what grinds my gears as well is the fact that a large number of 2nrs who have done conversions either don't have a diagnostic port, CEL, or both, all because the mechanic/electrician find "it doh need all dat"

That's the laurel right there.
Should be wired in soon though.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Conrad » July 1st, 2012, 9:11 pm

Pantos wrote:told to me by mechanics already:

Squeeze brake fluid back up in the lines to the reservoir when changing pads/shoes instead of letting the fluid bleed out through slackened nipple and then purging air out....


I do thi$, don't $ee anything wrong with it.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby FullStop » July 2nd, 2012, 8:10 am

Pantos wrote:told to me by mechanics already:

Squeeze brake fluid back up in the lines to the reservoir when changing pads/shoes instead of letting the fluid bleed out through slackened nipple and then purging air out.



this is good practice, there are many workshop tools that do this.


Hook wrote:IIRC, here on this forum self, someone said you unplug your knock sensor so the ECU doesn't pull timing and dump fuel, so u don't lose power

Manual cars often dont have the limp mode associated with a failed knock sensor, unplugging it can assist in drive-ability till the sensor is replaced.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby wagonrunner » July 2nd, 2012, 11:57 am

Conrad wrote:
Pantos wrote:told to me by mechanics already:
Squeeze brake fluid back up in the lines to the reservoir when changing pads/shoes instead of letting the fluid bleed out through slackened nipple and then purging air out....
I do thi$, don't $ee anything wrong with it.

so do I. would love to know the problem with it.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby rollingstock » July 9th, 2012, 5:30 pm

"(Always seen done on older cars, but can't find evidence to prove the reason:) switching plug wires around and backfiring the engine does clear out a carburettor."


"(never tried this one, but it might be true) The detergents in transmission fluid will keep carburetor jets clean, if you don't mund a little smoke from your exhaust."

These actually work on older vehicles eh :lol:

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Conrad » July 9th, 2012, 5:33 pm

ATF does wonders for cleaning/penetration (keep away from your anguses people).

Only realised it after doing research when Sanctifier mentioned mixing atf and acetone as a penetrant for getting rusted bolts loose.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby 4carspeedin » July 9th, 2012, 7:53 pm

Many Trini mechanics say - We don't need thermostat in Trinidad...

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby MG Man » July 10th, 2012, 1:37 pm

wagonrunner wrote:What about the only good oil filter is Fram or Purolator?
allyuh continue with fram. :lol: :lol:


years ago on tuner someone posted a review of oil filters on tuner, from a US site..............Fram was ranked 5th out of 5
Purolator was ranked 2nd behind K&N IIRC

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby Conrad » July 10th, 2012, 1:46 pm

MG Man wrote:
wagonrunner wrote:What about the only good oil filter is Fram or Purolator?
allyuh continue with fram. :lol: :lol:


years ago on tuner someone posted a review of oil filters on tuner, from a US site..............Fram was ranked 5th out of 5
Purolator was ranked 2nd behind K&N IIRC



The links are broken but see here.

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby MG Man » July 10th, 2012, 1:47 pm


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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby cinco » July 10th, 2012, 1:55 pm

anything oil related i go to
bobistheoilguy.com

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby FullStop » July 10th, 2012, 8:52 pm

cinco wrote:anything oil related i go to
bobistheoilguy.com


for propaganda?

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby cinco » July 10th, 2012, 9:08 pm

yes and fallacies!

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Re: Common myths and fallacies of some trini mechanics

Postby FullStop » July 10th, 2012, 9:33 pm

yeah, i does read fox news for giggles, same thing...

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