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nareshseep wrote: Myth 1. 20W50 is the best oil for all engine because Trinidad is a hot country.
This information is absolutely incorrect. You need to check your service manual to see what you Manufacturer recommends. Who would you believe the average mango tree mechanics or the manufacturer that made the car?
Newer engines have tighter/narrower tolerances than old engines and therefore the thinner oil is needed to get into these small spaces and produce adequate lubrication. Using a thicker oil will produce accelerated engine wear. A side effect of lubrication is cooling/reduction in friction . Using a thicker oil will also increase engine temp and increase pumping losses.
I will add some more when I get some time
S_2NR wrote:nareshseep wrote: Myth 1. 20W50 is the best oil for all engine because Trinidad is a hot country.
This information is absolutely incorrect. You need to check your service manual to see what you Manufacturer recommends. Who would you believe the average mango tree mechanics or the manufacturer that made the car?
Newer engines have tighter/narrower tolerances than old engines and therefore the thinner oil is needed to get into these small spaces and produce adequate lubrication. Using a thicker oil will produce accelerated engine wear. A side effect of lubrication is cooling/reduction in friction . Using a thicker oil will also increase engine temp and increase pumping losses.
I will add some more when I get some time
Your post is based on the assumption that everyone has "newer engines"
You're right about the manual part but aren't oils chosen based on ambient temperature?
Isnt trinidad hot relative to japan?
just asking eh
S_2NR wrote:nareshseep wrote: Myth 1. 20W50 is the best oil for all engine because Trinidad is a hot country.
This information is absolutely incorrect. You need to check your service manual to see what you Manufacturer recommends. Who would you believe the average mango tree mechanics or the manufacturer that made the car?
Newer engines have tighter/narrower tolerances than old engines and therefore the thinner oil is needed to get into these small spaces and produce adequate lubrication. Using a thicker oil will produce accelerated engine wear. A side effect of lubrication is cooling/reduction in friction . Using a thicker oil will also increase engine temp and increase pumping losses.
I will add some more when I get some time
Your post is based on the assumption that everyone has "newer engines"
You're right about the manual part but aren't oils chosen based on ambient temperature?
Isnt trinidad hot relative to japan?
just asking eh
wagonrunner wrote:http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?p=8611
Conrad wrote:Another oil thread???
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What about bumping up fuel pressure because bigger injectors aren't necessary?
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.
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What about some form of tuning/management not being necessary once you don't cross the magical pony hump of 5 psi, no it doesn't matter if it's a T25 or a GT4788R?
Hook wrote:Conrad wrote:Another oil thread???
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.
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What about bumping up fuel pressure because bigger injectors aren't necessary?
.
.
.
What about some form of tuning/management not being necessary once you don't cross the magical pony hump of 5 psi, no it doesn't matter if it's a T25 or a GT4788R?
Is THIS what you mean?
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68120&p=6311380#p6311380
sound boy 64 wrote:cars with loud barrels, rev and leggo fass till the exhaust "pop" daz when it working properly
S_2NR wrote:sound boy 64 wrote:cars with loud barrels, rev and leggo fass till the exhaust "pop" daz when it working properly
hahahhaha..wtf is this.. pop?
Hook wrote:what grinds my gears as well is the fact that a large number of 2nrs who have done conversions either don't have a diagnostic port, CEL, or both, all because the mechanic/electrician find "it doh need all dat"
Pantos wrote:told to me by mechanics already:
Squeeze brake fluid back up in the lines to the reservoir when changing pads/shoes instead of letting the fluid bleed out through slackened nipple and then purging air out....
Pantos wrote:told to me by mechanics already:
Squeeze brake fluid back up in the lines to the reservoir when changing pads/shoes instead of letting the fluid bleed out through slackened nipple and then purging air out.
Hook wrote:IIRC, here on this forum self, someone said you unplug your knock sensor so the ECU doesn't pull timing and dump fuel, so u don't lose power
Conrad wrote:I do thi$, don't $ee anything wrong with it.Pantos wrote:told to me by mechanics already:
Squeeze brake fluid back up in the lines to the reservoir when changing pads/shoes instead of letting the fluid bleed out through slackened nipple and then purging air out....
wagonrunner wrote:What about the only good oil filter is Fram or Purolator?
allyuh continue with fram.![]()
MG Man wrote:wagonrunner wrote:What about the only good oil filter is Fram or Purolator?
allyuh continue with fram.![]()
years ago on tuner someone posted a review of oil filters on tuner, from a US site..............Fram was ranked 5th out of 5
Purolator was ranked 2nd behind K&N IIRC
cinco wrote:anything oil related i go to
bobistheoilguy.com
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